Susan Gilbert

June 2nd – As much as I loved Astorga I am also anxious to start walking again.  My last evening here held many surprises which included running into Pauline, Kim and Sue along with a return visit in the plaza where a  man was walking his rabbit named Lulu again this evening.

The blue sky, cool morning air and countryside is calling me.  Today’s Camino is the beginning of a climb into what seems like high desert and it feels good to have my body moving again on the path.  One of the joys of the Camino for me is to arrive from one town to another by foot and take in every scene and sound along the way.  It’s addictive.

The path is busy today, I think with additional pilgrims who joined the Camino in Leon.  Entering into Santa Catalina de Somoza I spy the common stork nest that each small village has at least one of.

This is a very sweet village and a highlight includes seeing some of my pilgrim friends from Orisson who are taking a coffee break at a sidewalk cafe; as well as, seeing the mother and three year old, this time with him walking beside her.  (Notice my shadow doing a photo bomb!)

In the final stretch on today’s short walk there is a man dressed in medieval garb with a falcon.  As I ooh and ahh he brings out a large glove and motions for me to put it on.  Before I know it this beautiful creature and I are face to face while she is perched on my arm.  She is 12 years old and is calm, not minding me petting her soft feathers.

What an unexpected thrill for this pilgrim
to be able to pet and hold a falcon.  Life is good.

I attended a 30 minute Gregorian chant service at the small Benedictine Monastery tonight.  While I am not Catholic,  I came to give thanks for this wonderful Camino experience in a celebration of Thanksgiving.

Rabanal Del Camino has an old tradition of caring for pilgrims and the Knights Templar are thought to have had a presence here as early as the 12th century ensuring safe passage of pilgrims over this remote mountain terrain.  Tomorrow I will walk to the well known monument Cruz de Ferro.

June 1st – I awaken to the cathedral  bells ringing and the smell of fresh bread waiting in through my open window and the decision is made – I am staying an extra day in the city that is bigger than a small village but smaller than Burgos and Leon.  I won’t have enough time after reaching Santiago to continue on the Finestere- another three or four days of walking – but I can afford to take a day to absorb all the rich history Astorga has to offer.

First stop is Gaudi’s Bishops Palace which includes many pilgrim statues and the original Iron Cross Cruz de Ferro including the amazing architecture.  The building was started in 1889 and finished in 1913.  It’s facade is under repair currently.

The cathedral with its museum and adjoining ancient Hospital de San Jaun where St. Francis is to have stayed on his way to Santiago.  Astorga is rich in history overall and has played a significant role in the Camino Francis and pilgrims.

When I approached the Iglesia St. Francisco Asisi on the other end of town arriving into Astorga I heard singing.

Returning to that part of town today I stop at the Plaza Mayor and take a break in the square where I watch the ornate clock strike the hour as two mechanical figured – a man and a woman dressed in Maragato costume – strike the bell.

A stop in Astorga would not be complete without a stop to the Museo Del Chocolate.  This city was the first town on the old continent to make chocolate from the cocoa received from America.  For several centuries this industry was very important for Astoga, making some of the best chocolates still today.  Can’t wait to indulge!

Tomorrow it’s Rabanal Del Camino and a climb into the hills.

May 31st – Today’s short walk of about 10 miles (compared to yesterday of about 20) starts with a blue sky and the promise of a warm day.  While I start out wearing my fleece jacket I suspect I’ll be down to my short sleeves in quick order.

At the edge of town there is a choice whether to follow the yellow arrows straight ahead or take an alternate route to the right.  I have all day and a beautiful day at that so I turn right.  Within a short period of time and through farmlands where the frogs in the ditches at the side of the road were singing but when I stopped to take their picture became shy and dove under water, I arrive at a very sweet little town called Villares de Orbigo.  Pleasant winding streets take me past an open garage door with four people who were cleaning potatoes.  I said, “Hola!” and they all looked up and smiled.  I pulled out my phone and in sign language asked if I could take their picture.  They all nodded as they continued smiling and doing their work.

The Camino offers gifts to me every day and I feel grateful to share this moment in time with them.

Leaving this town the path moves up into quiet farmland with I ncredible views. I walk past a lean to with cows eating their breakfast and small enclosures with young calfs.  The farmer is walking down the path and I tell him his animals are beautiful.  I’m not sure that he understands my words but I can tell he understands the meaning and beams.

The path continues mostly up with views of this beautiful land.  I feel like my feet are hardly touching the ground I am so happy.

Shortly after the next village, Santibanez de Valdeiglesias, I arrive at an Albergue/ refuge referred to as the Abode of God’s – where a man by the name of David has a donation only rest stop that has been created with love that is palatable.  The grounds are immaculate.  He and I chat while many pilgrims help themselves to fruit, drinks and benches to rest.

The view of the mountains is spectacular and it isn’t long before the path starts downward and Astorga comes into view at the Cruceiro Santo Toribio, a stone cross commemorating the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga.

As I am taking this picture I can hear music which adds to the surreal morning this had been. I start down the hill and see where it is coming from.  A local man is earning money by serenading pilgrims with a Camino song.

The closer I get to Astorga the more defined the Plaza Cathedral and Gaudi‘s Bishops Palace can be seen.

Arriving in the city I discover that today is market day and the streets are filled with street vendors and locals doing their shopping. I slow down and let myself go with the flow of people while I take in the sights and sounds around me of a normal day in Astorga.

I have booked a room tonight in a restored 18th century palace and find that I am in the  attic room with a view of the garden and the cathedral along with its chiming bells which is only a street away.  After such a magical day I am in heaven here on earth.

Should I stay another day?  I think so!

May 30th – I leave some of my friends in Leon to continue the Camino while others are ahead of me.  Walking the path offers so many rich experiences and the people I meet plays a big part.

Walking out of Leon I think about my friend at home, Ann Marie, who started her Camino in Leon.  For the first several miles the path is in the city and outskirts with the hustle and bustle of people going to work – it’s Monday morning- and the cars zooming by with their noise and fumes.  How would I feel if this was the beginning of my Camino rather than starting in the French countryside?  Then I begin to feel like this mornings walk is so much like my Camino training walks at home when I would leave my home wearing my backpack and walk into town for groceries or to do errands.  The same asphalt roads.  The same cars and noise.  And isn’t this just like life which includes our preferred atmosphere right along with our less preferred?  Its a beautiful life and before I know it I’m seeing some countryside and my favorite bird here – the storks!

I stop at an Albergue after about 10k mostly to use the restroom but order a cup of coffee to warm myself – it’s chilly and windy today.  The Albergue is empty with all pilgrims on the path; but, the lovely lady sweeping the floors brings me not a cup of coffee – it’s a large bowl of coffee and with it a small cake which she communicates to me in Spanish is for me, no charge.  It’s just one more Camino gift of so many I have received – so many blessings.

At the next village, Villadangos Del Paramo, I see the above sign that says Santiago is 298 kilometers away.  It hardly seems possible that I’ve come so far and the days are flying by.  Today will be a 34k (21 mile) walk and it is going by quickly while I try to hold on to rah sight and sound.

I arrive at Hospital De Orbigo by crossing the most interesting bridge makes me feel like a medieval pilgrim.  According to my Brierley guide it is one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain dating from the  13th century and built over an earlier Roman bridge which formed one of the great historical landmarks on the Camino and with its accompanying legend may have been the inspiration for Cervantes Don Quixote.

This bridge along with yet another stork sighting makes for another beautiful day on the Camino.