Camino de Santiago

May 27th – Today’s over 16 mile walk will be my last on the Meseta with the following day into Leon a much shorter walk through the city suburbs into Leon.

The path runs parallel to an asphalt secondary road and I pass the time by watching the wheat fields that include ever present Ted poppies; as well as, wave to the drivers of tractors on the road.

Some mornings there is a log jam of pilgrims leaving a village and other days I am on the path quite alone like today.  The tree lined path goes on for about five miles then ends along a two lane road.  Before an underpass there is a dirt road to the lefty- a Camino looking path, but no yellow arrows or markers.  One of the challenging parts of being a solo pilgrim is that you are finding your own way instead of following backpacks.  On instinct I continue along the road and on the other side of the underpass I see a tree lined path again to the left.  Since it looked so similar to the earlier path I crossed my fingers, hoped it was right, and figured worst case scenerio I’d find out at the next town and would have to back track.  I was quite happy and did an inner shout of joy when I saw a sign for an Albergue about 1k outside El Burgo Ranero, my next destination.  After stopping for coffee and a bathroom break I’m back on the path, this time with pilgrims ahead.

A highlight of my morning was meeting a pilgrim with his dog, Falcon.  In addition to Falcon being a well dressed pilgrim in his green vest,  it was decorated with a small wooden cross (look closely and you will see it).  Falcon and his human companion started the Camino on February 2nd in Basel, Switzerland – they have walked well over a thousand miles so far!  I had met a man a few days ago who was from Halifax Canada who had started in Montpollier France.  Walking from St. Jean to Santiago looks like child play in comparison to these long range pilgrims.  I must say that Falcon was full of energy and showing no sign of pain or the all familiar pilgrim limp.

I saw my pilgrim friend Reuben who greeted me with a hug and smile.  We walked together for awhile until he stopped to take a break.  Then I saw Gail from Canada who I hadn’t seen for awhile.  She was walking very slowly and explained she was having problems with blisters.  As I slowed to walk with her for awhile two male pilgrims who I had passed on the path now passed us.  When I left Gail, I caught up with them again and one of the two asked where I was headed for.  I said, “Mansilla“, and he laughed saying, “At your pace you will be there by noon”.  We all laughed as I scooped ahead and I said “Buen Camino”.

I see a local man walking in the same direction as me but on the street rather than the path.  He carries a walking stick but rather than use it he is dragging it along the ground beside him.  It made me think that his wife or adult child had told him if he was going for a long walk he needed to take his stick – which he did, but darned if he was going to use it!

At Reliegos, I stopped for a glass of my morning orange juice and to apply sun block.  The morning is cool but I can feel the sun on my skin and the backs of my legs.  Returning to the path with just a few miles to go, I see my two pilgrims again.  They turned and seeing me waved.  We walked the rest of the way into Mansilla together.  The one who spoke English – Andrea – is from northern Italy and Raul, who spoke only Spanish is from Valencia.  Andrea became the interpreter for our three way conversation and upon arriving in Mansilla, Raul wanted to have his picture taken with me so we three pilgrims found yet another to take our photo.  How fast we make friends here on the Camino with our path one and the same.

Raul is doing the Camino in stages having started in Burgos this time and would complete his journey today pushing on to Leon.  Andrea was going one more village closer to Leon, Puente Villarente, I think.  For me, today’s walk is finished at 16.9 miles.

I pass through the old city walls called the Door of Saint James because it is through it that pilgrims on the “French Way” enter the town.  In the 12th century Mansilla was the first stop in the Kingdom of Leon.

Tomorrow’s walk is considered a slog into Leon, mostly suburbs and industrial, with the green fields of the Meseta now behind.  I think I’ll pretend I’m entering the Kingdom of Leon today!

May 26th – Today’s almost 15 mile walk starts under another cool and cloudy sky.  It doesn’t take long before the clouds lessen and the blue sky begins to take over.  The birds are active and song full.  The little yellow or orange breasted finches flit from tree to tree, never lingering for very long.

I come upon Rueben from Holland who I shared dinner and pilgrim conversation last night – the whys and ahah moments experienced thus far.  He points to the early morning moon in the sky.  I exclaim “Beautiful” and then spontaneously begin to sing, “Oh what a beautiful morning, Oh what a beautiful day”.  We laugh and I continue on leaving Rueben to gaze at the sky.

Very quickly I come upon the village of Moratinos and what looks like a hobbit house. As I get closer there is a placard in both Spanish and English (very unusual, it’s usually Spanish only) that explains these bodega caves, at least 500 years old, were full of wine presses, barrels, clay vessels and bottling vats in years gone by.  It continued to explain that some Moratinos families still use these caves their ancestors dug into this hillside to store cheese, ham and vegetables.

Entering the town and passing by the town square church I notice a painting on the outside of a home to the left of the front door.  So very appropriate for this region.

Outside this village I come up behind two pilgrims speaking French.  Passing them I say Buen Camino and smile.  The woman pilgrim says in English “You are flying, Pilgrim!”  I laugh and she continues, “Do you have a song?”  I hold my arms up to the sky and sing, “Oh what a beautiful morning, Oh what a beautiful day!”  The male pilgrim says, “You are the flying pilgrim”, and I like that.  I am!

I enter the outskirts of Sahagun by passing the hermitage Our Lady of the Bridge, an unpretentious sanctuary that was once a pilgrim hospice.

Sahagun is my halfway point of today’s walk.  It took awhile to get out of the suburbs and into the original city.  Turning the corner with the Iglesia San Lorenzo church on my right what do I see but two horses with packs on their backs tied at the side of the road.  I’ve heard of pilgrims who do the Camino on horseback but this is my first evidence of yet another way to experience the path.  I jump at the opportunity to talk with and pet these beautiful creatures.

This seems the perfect place for a late breakfast/early lunch break that will include my favorite drink – orange juice, cool and refreshing plus always fresh squeezed.  I leave Sahagun via the historic stone bridge across the river Cea,  Puente Canto, originally Roman but reconstructed in the 11th and 16th centuries.  It’s now a one car at a time only bridge that is still in use.

I reach my destination of the day via a tree lined pathway that runs next to a secondary road.  Bercianos Del Real Camino derives its name from the settlement of the town with citizens from the Bierzo in 955.

Before arriving at the Albergue I pass another hermitage, Ermita de Nuestra de Perales, Our Lady of Pears.  Oh what a beautiful day!

May 25th – Last night I stayed in the Real Monasterio San Zoilo that Brierley says are pilgrim hesitant but was not my experience and I paid far less than he quotes.  Located 1k outside Carrion and on the Camino it dates from the 11th century.  When I entered the lobby, Gregorian chants were being played through the 13th century room that greeted me. My room was in what had been the cloisters and I am overjoyed to have this experience.  My room is simple – as it should be – and looks out over a peaceful garden.

Today’s walk – about 16 miles – is on the old Roman road which is now covered in 21st century asphalt.  I hear a clip clip behind me and turn to see a horse drawn wagon.  As it passes me, who do I see waving from the wagon but my pilgrim friend Kristine who is seated with about five others.  What a charming experience to bring to the Meseta!

After a couple miles the asphalt gives way to the more common path of dirt and gravel.  I can imagine that if this long straight way had the summer sun beating down on it, walking could be far more difficult than it is in this cool and cloud covered sky.  There are drainage ditches along the side the road and frogs join into natures song for the day.

There will be no villages or shade for the first 10 miles today.  As in the last few days, the farmland is busy with tractors which I enjoy watching.  I don’t want to miss a thing realizing that everything I see is new and I may never see again.  The last few days I have seen the Cantabrian Mountains that stretch across northern Spain to my right but today they have disappeared.  Today’s walk reminds me on one of my training walks that I did along the Snoqualmie River farmlands with the big difference being here there are crop fields only, no homes.

Every day before I start my walk, I open a little book called The Way by Josemaria Escriva and randomly choose a passage to read.  Today’s was:

Alone!  You are not alone.  We are keeping you close company from afar.  Besides abiding in your soul in grace is the Holy Spirit – God with you! – giving a supernatural tone to all your thoughts, desires and works.

These small psalms keep my “being” intention alive and well.

I’ve heard about people walking the Camino barefoot but today was the first time I witnessed it – I can’t imagine.  While the surface here was smooth, we’ve had some incredibly rocky and diverse ground to walk upon.  His stride is very zen like and flowing.

When I am walking I get a little spacey between the continued walking and scenery, almost dreamlike.  All of a sudden I was jolted out of my reverie with an expected very large and bright green lizard who ran out of the brush onto the path then just as quickly U turned back into the brush.  Was it my imagination?  I think not.

I arrive in Calzadilla de la Cueza – the first stop of the day – after walking about 10 miles and in time for lunch, my mainstay tortilla and orange juice.  Refreshed and ready to continue brings me to my resting place another 5.9 miles later – Albergue Los Templarios.  Time to do some laundry.  One the great things about the Albergues are the home like atmospheres that include outdoor clothes lines.

The cafe here has a mural in the wall that I can only photo a portion of that shows the main stops on the Camino starting at St. Jean and ending in Santiago.  According to this I am exacting halfway into the Camino. Amazing!

May 24th – The Camino leaving Fromista is flat gravel that is easy on the feet and body to walk.  I visited two very beautiful churchs in Fromista last night – Iglesia de Martin, consecrated in 1066, and Iglesia de San Pedro with religious artwork and a statue of St. James.  However there is something about this town that does not seem to have the heart of most Camino villages.

Only a couple miles outside of Fromista is the little village of Poblacion de Campas where I once again feel the soul of the Camino.  There is an option here to cross a stone bridge over the rio Ucieza and take the river route through the agricultural fields with tractors tilling the fields away from the busy road.

Within a couple of hours I arrive at Villacazar De Sirga and go into the village square where I take a break, remove my backpack for awhile and sit drinking a cup of coffee while looking at the magnifient Templar church of Santa Maria.

It’s only a few more miles before I will reach Carrion de Los Condes and this final part of the path is parallel to the two lane highway.  The wild flowers that always include the red poppies bring continued color to the path.  It’s times like this that I play with talking to the clouds, the fields, the birds and the flowers.  I feel pulled to take more pictures of the poppies when I already have so many, so I call out in my mind, ‘Which of you would like to be memorialized for all time?’ when one poppy who is sharing the wheat fields with a few blue flowers says, “Pick me!” And I do.

May 23rd – The walk leaving Castrojeriz on this cool morning will begin with a strenuous 12% grade  100 Meter climb onto the Meseta.  I pause about a third of the way up to take a photo and then ask another pilgrim doing the same to take one that includes me.

I continue up the hill and marvel at the beauty all around me.  Understanding that I have several days on the Meseta and may change my tune I currently find the atmosphere every bit as delightful and exhilarating as any part of the Camino I have experienced.

The land is alive with colors and the scents of rich earth mixed with freshly cut wheat and wild flowers along the road.  When I least expect it the crops and colors change.  The fields are active as the day of the week, Monday, reflects Sunday’s day of rest has passed.

Maybe it’s the time of year – perhaps the drier summer months and sun baked heat would make the Meseta more intimidating.  Many of us doing the Camino have John Brierly’s guide which is 10 years old and says that June, July and August are the busy months with May and September less so.  I think his information is out of date.  A Spanish woman back in Ventosa had said in a non judgemental way, “Why do you all come at the same time – May and September?”  Living in Seattle, I am accustomed to changing weather patterns and rain so I’m feeling right at home.  Perhaps others are finding the beauty in doing the Camino in Spring and Fall rather than Summer.

Before arriving at Itero de la Vega I pass the 13th century building Hostal originally founded in the 12th century and later a Cisterian monastery was added.  I cross over the Puento de Itero whose eleven arches carry me over the rio Pisuerga and into the Provincial de Palencia.

Itero de la Vega is my lunch stop and rest break before returning to the path – next stop Boadilla Del Camino.  The church steeples are the first things I can usually see and coming into this village I can see stork nests at the top of the parish church.

Stopping to take a picture I hear my name being called.  It is my Danish husband and wife friends who I see off and on. I visit with them for awhile and find we had all been in Castrojeriz last night.  They had walked past a building balcony and looking up had said to each other, “Susan is staying there.”  My pink clothes line with Velcro that wraps around a clothes line or in this case the balcony railing had identified me!

The final part of my 16 mile walk today that will end in  Fromista is along a tree lined path and the Canal de Castilla.  For all the Camino pilgrims who believe the Path is for penance, pain and suffering I’m sorry – but I am having an experience of joy filled days with more beauty around me that I can possibly behold and absorb into my being.  I’m singing a different tune – Blessed be.

May 22nd – Today will be an 18+ mile day starting back at Tardajos to Rabe de las Calzadas, Hornillos, Hontanas, San Anton to Castrojeriz.  My wonderful hosts Blana and Jesus make sure I have breakfast before I leave their home.  Rain is predicted for at least the first part of my day but for now it’s just cloudy but I leave oblivious of the weather.  After hugs from each of my hosts, Jesus holds my face with his hands and speaks to me in Spanish.  Tears well in my eyes and this experience belies logic.

I’m on my way once again.  Tardajos is a charming town and I’m excited to see many stork nests in two different church steeples.  More importantly they all have storks in them!  See if you can see three nests below.

People say the Mesada is boring but I don’t see that at all.  The towns are interesting and the fields of wheat green and blowing in the wind. It has started to sprinkle when I reach Rabe de las Calzadas and by the time I am outside this village it is pouring.  I put the cover on my backpack in anticipation of this.  Wearing my raincoat I’m prepared for the weather that reminds me so much of the Pacific Northwest – rapidly changing.  By the time I reach Hornillos Los Del Camino I am drenched and enter a bar for a cafe con leche and the opportunity to dry off a bit.  By the time I have regrouped the rain has stopped and I’m seeing some blue sky off on the horizon.  Stepping outside the bar I am charmed by the fountain just opposite that I missed seeing on the way in with my head bent into the rain.

The wind is blowing stronger and seems to be coming from each side, and the I am walking into it.  This swirling wind is loud and creates resistance as I walk.

Hontanas is a charming old world traditional pilgrim stop.  I choose this for my lunch stop and remove my shoes and wet socks as I sit outside in the sun across from the church.

Back on the Mesata dirt path I see ahead of me someone is pushing what I think is a baby buggy.  As I pass I say, “Baby”?  And she says, “Yes, three years old”, and I can see a little foot wearing a tennis shoe bundled under the covers.  Amazing!

I arrive at San Anton, the ruins of the ancient Convento de San Anton and pass under the St. Anthony archway.

Castrojeriz is now within view though 2.5k away.  I arrive into this very long village about 3 pm having walked almost 19 miles.  Finding my lodging for the night I run into Betty and Marianne from Orisson and we share our Camino stories over dinner.